Working My Way Through Laos

Hello from Vientiane, the capital of Laos. I've been making my way up the country, and am getting closer to the north now. The wifi in this country goes from nonexistent to painfully slow, so my apologies that I've been--and will continue to be--a little MIA this month. But I'm still doing great!

I've been stopping in small little towns and moving relatively quickly from place to place. It's been a lot of watching the countryside roll by though bus windows!

After I left Pakse I spent 2 nights in Tat Lo, a sleepy little village with beautiful scenery all around. I was staying with a French girl for most of the time and we spent our days walking a lot, seeing waterfalls and a small village, reading, relaxing, and enjoying the laid back atmosphere. We also spent a night cooking at a guesthouse and then eating a delicious meal with the family who runs it. Yum!

I stopped off in Champasak for a night on my way North, but there was really nothing to do in this small city so the next morning, after walking around for a while, I kept moving, up to Thakhek.

For a long time now I've been looking forward to my time in Tha Khek. The city itself is nothing to write home about, but many travelers do "the loop," a 3-4 day moto ride through the countryside, stopping off to see the many caves in the area, enjoying the gorgeous mountains towering around you, and sleeping in small guesthouses in little villages. It's a way to get off the beaten path, you can interact more with locals, and it's just meant to be a really fun way to see more of central Laos. I don't drive a moto but its always easy to hop on the back of someones bike and tag along, which is what I planned to do.

No such luck. Apparently it's really difficult to do the loop without your own bike; lots of long bumpy roads, so along with your backpack (a small one, but still), its not really a trip meant for 2 people. And I wasn't with  anyone with a bike anyway, so it just wasn't working out. I thought about learning to ride a bike; i'm  sure it's really easy, and there are SO many times in Asia where everything wold be so much easier with your own wheels. Pretty much everyone traveling in Asia rents a bike at some point, tons of people use them throughout their whole trip. It gives you so much freedom, opportunity, an adventure. But alas, safety first for me, I just didn't feel comfortable doing it, so I gave up the idea of doing the loop. Ah well. I met up with others who weren't doing the loop , but instead organized a tuk tuk tour around the area. I joined up with them, and we basically did the first part of the loop. We stopped at 4 caves, and then ended the day at a lake. It was really nice, and a good compromise since I wasn't doing the full 4 day adventure. I felt satisfied. 

The same group (2 German girls, a German guy, and a French Canadian couple) all got up early the next morning to go to Kong Lo cave. It's a bit out of the way and a pain to get to, but really worth it! And the ride there is beautiful with more mountain scenery. The cave itself is massive, we rode through the 7.5kilometers (!) in little boats, headlamps at the ready since its super dark inside. At some places it's up to 100 meters high. Really impressive! 

The next morning 5 of the 6 of us caught an early bus to Vientiane, where I am now. (Like I said, lots of buses!) I arrived here yesterday afternoon, and will likely stay 3 nights. There's not much to do but wander and eat, but that's ok with me. I applied for a 60day Thai visa today (a few hours of bureaucratic inconvenience but not too bad), and I pick up my visa and passport tomorrow. This way, I can spend the full 2 months in Thailand without having to do a border run and/or leave the country. 
I also had lunch today with my friend Sheyla, who has been living here for about 2 years now. I know her through Yana and Chita, and haven't seen her since their wedding almost 2 years ago. (Wow, guys, 2 years!?!? Really?!) She is just the loveliest and warmest person ever, and it was such a treat to see her. It's always nice to see a friendly face while traveling. Ill hopefully see her again before I leave; it was a real spot of sunshine (not that I need more sun here...) seeing her smiling face.


So all is well. Time is absolutely flying  by, I cannot understand how it's almost March. Someone please slow down the clock!! I'm starting to think more clearly about the rest of my trip, it looks like ill be in Laos through mid March (1-2 more weeks), Thailand for about 2 months or so, then hopefully I can still squeeze in Indonesia and Malaysia before heading back to the US. Not sure if that's possible, but ill try! This can change at any time, but for now, that's the plan. It's hard to decide, once you're in this part of the world you want to see everything, since its so close! I hear incredible things about Myanmar, I've always wanted to go to India, China is just a bus ride away...and don't even get me started on Australia...and from there, of course New Zealand and Fiji...eeep. (This is all I do on long bus rides). But those are trips for another day, can't do it all now. Just have to enjoy the time I have here now! I'm a lucky girl :)

Laos Begins

I arrived safely in Laos a few days ago, with relatively easy transport and the requisite border overcharging and annoyances. At this particular border, they "charge" for each passport stamp--$2 to leave Cambodia, $3 to enter Laos. And I know that I paid way too much for my visa. But I didn't have the energy to fight it so I just paid and moved on. Oh, corruption.

My first stop was Don Det island, part of 4000 islands (Si Phan Don). I spent 3 nights in a bungalow overlooking the Mekong with 2 lovely girls I met on the bus, and I easily could have spent more time there. One main dirt road runs parallel to the river, plus a few others run off of it, passing by only locals, pigs, chickens, buffalo, dogs, cats,  waving children, and of course, western travelers and guesthouses, bungalows, restaurants, and bars to cater to them. The main area is actually quite touristy, but in a sleepy, relaxed sort of way. I imagine i'll describe much of Laos as "sleepy." In fact, the country has an 11pm curfew, so everything pretty much shuts down around then or earlier anyway--usually until a rooster or fisherman wakes you up.

The official name of the country is Laos PDR--people's democratic republic. But the joke is that it stands for "please don't rush." I have a feeling that won't be a joke though...

After a few hours the first afternoon and night feeling really sick, throwing up in some bushes, and deciding that I had contracted dengue fever, I took some medicine, went to sleep I think around 8pm, and woke up the next morning feeling fine! Phew. I took it easy that day, walking around and lazing in a hammock. The next day I did a full day kayaking tour. We kayaked a ton, walked through a village to see a small waterfall, swam, saw dolphins, visited the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia (beautiful and very impressive!), and got back to Don Det as the sun was starting to set over the water. It was a somewhat unorganized tour but we had a good time. And my arms/neck/shoulders hurt so much after, it was quite a workout!

Also of note (to me at least), I finally

had my first Pad Thai in Asia. I was trying to hold out until Thailand, but I couldn't wait any more. And Laos has close ties to Thailand, so it's supposedly really similar. And I was not disappointed. Nommmm. I could live on Thai food...it's basically why I decided to do this whole trip: pad thai on a Thai beach. Ok kidding, sort of. But I was a happy happy girl. I already know I'm going to be that super annoying person who, upon eating at an Asian restaurant, shakes her head sadly after one bite and sighs "it's just not the same...when I was in ______...(insert name of country here). I already do it with hummus, and Mexican food...let's add spring rolls and pho and pad Thai and I guess all Asian food to the list. I'm sorry in advance. Please still eat meals with me. 

With my visa I have a month to spend here in Laos, which sounds like a lot of time but it really isn't! So I'm feeling a tiny bit rushed, as there's so many places I want to see here. I'm starting to make my way up north now.

 I spent my first night on the mainland in tiny Champasak, known for the beautiful (and UNESCO heritage site) Wat Phu Champasak, reminiscent of the Angkorian temples. (I wonder how many temples and wats I've seen on this trip?!) I met up with 3 Aussies and 2 Germans en route, and after arriving in town around 2pm we dumped our bags in a guesthouse and went right to Wat Phu. Lots of stairs in blazing hot sun, beautiful views of the Mekong valley, really peaceful and shady area at the top...nice place to check out. Sidenote, I know that back home winter is giving y'all a beating, and I'm thrilled to be missing it. But I believe that I'm entering the hottest time in SEA (March and April will be the worst, and it's starting now). I know you don't feel bad for me at the moment, you shouldn't, and I do love the heat, but eeeeesh. If you saw my hair you'd understand.

Now I'm in Pakse, a shit little city that I'm just in for a day to grab a connecting bus further north tomorrow morning. I'm going to Tat Lo next, part of the Bolaven Plateau. I don't know much about it, but it's known for coffee and waterfalls--and a slightly cooler climate--so it sounds like a place for me!!

I'm just trying to keep my head on straight with so many languages and currencies constantly changing. Just when I start to get the hang of things, it all changes on me! I think I've finally stopped saying "thank you" in Khmer instead of Lao, and I'm just starting to work out the math on Kip, the Lao currency. I was spoiled in Cambodia, did I ever mention that they use the US dollar? Their currency is the riel but its basically useless, so everyone works in dollars. The ATMs give out dollars, not riel, if that tells you anything. But they give you change in riel, you use it for small purchases, and you can use a combination of the 2 currencies, so effectively you're using both at once. Oy. I do miss the ease of south/central America, where almost every country speaks the same language. It also helps enormously  that I speak said language. But alas, I'm learning new things all the time out here! 

Keep on emailing me updates on your lives, I LOVE getting them. Ive been gone for 3 months now, I'm sure you have at least one story for me! And iPhone users (hey Cam, is that you yet?!??), remember that you can text and FaceTime me any time (just keeping in mind the time difference). When I have wifi ill get it!

Sending hugs and kisses to you all! 

Kampuchea: Come for 4 weeks, stay for 7

The first stop on my journey to the northeast was Kampong Cham, set along the Mekong. There's not much to do, but it's a nice stop for a day or two. I went to see a pre-Angkorian (10th century?) temple, which was beautiful but I'm spoiled now. After the temples in Siem Reap, no others will ever compare. I also walked across the bamboo bridge, which is...wait for it...a bridge made out of bamboo. Apparently it washes away during each rainy season and is rebuilt entirely from scratch every December. I never really did figure out the logic here. It was cool to walk over the Mekong though. It's a bit rickety (mom, you'd love it) but incredibly stable. Cars and motos can cross it with no problem. 

Next town was Kratie. I've described many parts of Cambodia as "sleepy little towns on a river." Kratie (pronounced Krah-cheh) was instead, as my guidebook indicated, a "lively" town on the Mekong. After arriving I spent some time wandering the area and the market, staring at a map of Cambodia while in a hammock (trying to plan the rest of my time here), and watching a beautiful sunset over the river.

That evening I met Tom from England at dinner when the waitress randomly just sat me down at his table when I asked to be seated. Ok then. Luckily it tuned out that he had also just arrived to Kratie and was deciding what to do the next day. I told him what I had planned and we decided to spend the day together. The following morning we took a quick boat ride to a nearby island for a 9k bike ride through some beautiful villages. The bicycles were in horrible condition (ie the brakes on mine didn't exactly work) so we just took it slow in the hot hot hot sun and enjoyed the scenery. Later that afternoon after some lunch and beers by the water, we went to see some freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins. These animals are incredibly endangered, I think there's only about  the left in the Mekong. It was a bit anticlimactic but we saw a few of them and had a nice sunset towatch from the boat. It was a really nice day.

After Kratie I kept heading north to Mondulkiri. I met some cool girls on the bus and ended up rooming with Kirsten, a social worker from Germany. We spent the next few days together. Also by "bus," I mean ridiculously overcrowded minivan where they shoved (at one count) 23 people inside. You have to pay more for your own seat, which I did not do. Lots of sweaty grossness and discomfort for a few hours, and probably my least favorite ride in Asia so far. Ooof. 

Before I left for Asia, one of my "must do's" was to ride an elephant, like a typical tourist. But I looove elephants and how can you not do it?! But since arriving here, I read up a lot on it and talked to a lot of people--it's a really abusive and exploitive industry, so after much deliberation, I was set that I just couldnt support it. Instead, I decided to volunteer at an elephant project in Mondulkiri that rescues abused elephants. You get to watch them in a natural habitat, walk and swim with them, help out with any needed tasks, and support a good cause. Cool beans, right? Not so easy.

I got to the area and learned about the massive controversy in the town. Long story short, the elephant project (Western owned, I should add) purports that all elephant riding is abusive, don't do the jungle treks with elephants because its horrible, done and done. But then the local side of the story is that the project is exploiting volunteers and the community, local guides are becoming unemployed, basically the project is a scam and instead support those who need the money. So what to believe?

I was super confused, but after talking to some locals (and learning that the dates I wanted at the project were booked), I ultimately decided to do a 2 day jungle trek that included elephants at the end of the last day. Kirsten and I, along with two folks from Australia, set off the following morning. We had a nice day of walking through the jungle, swimming at a waterfall, and staying in a local homestay in a village (the village  consisted of approximately 20 people, in 3 houses, and lots of pigs, chickens, dogs, etc). 

Day #2 started with more trekking to another waterfall, then more walking until we saw elephants waiting for us! They are such amazing animals and I was in love. Sadly, it did seem as though they were not treated so well, and we were all pretty uncomfortable with it the whole time. It was a nice experience riding them but I wouldn't do it again and can't recommend it with a clear conscience. My favorite part of the day was swimming with the elephants and washing them, which was unreal. At the end of the day, I hope my money went to the locals and that I made the right choice to do it. I have many complicated thoughts on this issue. 

Also, a local guy from town who opened the guesthouse I stayed in and helped arrange the trek told us that he "doesn't go fishing in the river, only in the pub." So that made me laugh. 

After Mondulkiri I backtracked for a few final days in Phnom Penh, including a trip to an animal rescue sanctuary/zoo. Lots of animals during this week! Now I'm back on track in the northeast, after an almost 12 hour bus ride to get here. It was supposed to be 9 hours, but whose counting? Lots of bumps and horrible but hilarious Asian music videos, bloody movies/action films, and game shows to keep me awake. Also a bag of undetermined contents that randomly moved by my feet. I'm guessing chickens? And this was one of the big fancy buses! Ah, Cambodia.

I got off of this magical bus ride in Ban Lung, a town in the Ratanakiri province. I met a guy at my hostel who was doing what I wanted to do the next day--and he has a bike, so he invited me to come with him. We rode out to a waterfall about 7k away, then to another one about 20k away. We got lost multiple times looking for the second one, and the roads are super bumpy and just completely covered in dust, so by the time we found the waterfall it was like seeing a mirage in the desert. Everything was completely covered in dust, my clothes and hair and face were just brown. And the ride was so bumpy that we lost our bananas and water bottles (my good camelback water bottle, :-(, RIP). So our swim in the waterfall was immensely enjoyed. Then we ended the day swimming in a volcanic crater lake and watching the sunset.

And now, after 7 weeks, it's my last day in this beautiful, warm, chaotic, often frustrating, always interesting, exciting country. I have loved my time here, but I'm feeling ready for what comes next. 

Tomorrow I cross into Laos, where I should be for the next month. I am expecting a long day of travel, full of bumpy rides, border mayhem and overcharging, and general confusion. But as long as all goes to plan, and by nightfall I am safe and sound on Don Det island with a beerlao in my hand, I will be happy.

Here's to the next step of the journey!