Ending in Indonesia

From Bali I took a boat to Gili Trawangan, one of 3 small islands off the coast. Gili T, where I spent 3 nights, is the most developed. Its made of dusty roads, horse-drawn carriages, lots of chickens and children running around--and of course, perfect paradise  beach. The water is a deep deep blue, then bright turquoise, and finally clear as it hits the sand. There are huge mountains surrounding the islands, making for an even more awe-inspiring backdrop. It's a really relaxed place, I had lots of beach time (something I clearly never tire of). There's also some pretty great diving, and I did a dive and saw some massive sea turtles! The current on the Gilis is really strong, wade into the water just a few steps and you feel yourself being pulled. This made for a a challenging dive, but I loved it! We also spent a day on Gili Air, a bit smaller and even less developed than T. All in all, a lovely 3 days of sand and sun.

From the Gilis we headed over to Lombok, a much bigger island. And so stunning! Greenery and coconut trees everywhere, and sweeping views of the Indian Ocean as you come around the curving roads. It was one day relaxing on sengiggi beach and booking a 3 day trek to the summit of Mt. Rinjani, a volcano that reaches 3726 meters.

Luckily, I don't think I really knew what I was signing up for. Oh my word, this was hands down the most physically challenging thing I have ever done in my life. It makes all other treks I've done look like a stroll around the park. Pretty much every step is straight up or straight down, it is grueling and unrelenting. At many points I was unsure if I would make it to the finish.

Day one we trekked uphill for about 6 hours, after a 5am pickup from our guesthouse. It was slow going with many breaks--we made it to our campsite just for sunset. But wow, what a sunset! We were camping overlooking the crater lake of the volcano, which was beautiful. And we were above the clouds, almost at the full moon, so the night sky was gorgeous. We had a view of the volcano on Bali, the Gili islands, and massive green hills all around. Stunning. The night was really cold so we huddled around a small fire while we ate dinner, then fell asleep probably by 9pm.

The next day we woke up to watch the sunrise over the crater lake, wrapped in our sleeping bags. After breakfast we hiked down 2-3 hours, my knees starting to get mad at me about an hour in. They had no idea what they were in for. We reached the lake, took a quick dip, then walked a little more to some natural hot springs under a steaming waterfall. This was a godsend for our already sore muscles and dirty skin. It was absolutely delicious.
But then we had to make our way back up. It was only 3 more hours, but this was where I shed my first tears. There
was some free rock climbing/scaling, and every now and again I would look down and remind myself not to fall. It wasn't easy, but we made it to our campsite, set atop a mountain with another gorgeous view and night sky. And we had a clear shot of the summit of Rinjani, the beast we were going to tackle. Everyone talks about how the summit is the hardest part, obviously, and I wasn't convinced that I'd make it.
We had an early dinner and went to sleep around 7:30pm, me a little excited and very scared.

We woke up at 2am, with sunrise at the summit our goal. It was a full moon, and friday the 13th--good thing im not superstitious. This was where shit got real, holy moley. It was intense, to say the least. Picture me on my hands and feet clawing my way up what looked like a 90degree slope, over gravel-y loose rocks and volcanic ash. Every movement felt like one step up, two back, with already screaming muscles and a pounding heart. It should take about 3 hours, I made it in 4, and could not have been prouder of myself. I got to the summit and started crying, can't even tell you why. The view was amazing and I'll say that it was worth it, and I'm glad I did it. But never again.

2-3 hour walk straight down back down to our campsite for breakfast. Then I made the mistake of asking the guide "how long do we walk to get back to the bottom?" "6 hours." My spirits sunk, I couldn't even imagine making it back down. I wanted to throw a temper tantrum. That would bring me to a grand total of 12 hours or so of trekking. And so it did. It was allllll downhill, much of it on loose gravel. I went down a lot of it on my bum, and did not enjoy this part! So painful. But we finally reached the bottom, dirty and tired and sore but proud!

A lot of people traveling out here go to Nepal; unfortunately I couldn't get there on this trip. But I've now been told that if I can summit Rinjani, I can definitely accomplish Everest base camp. So who knows, maybe I'll add that to my bucket list.

At this point I had about 4 days left of my travels (eep!), but I couldn't even be bothered to use them wisely. Days later I'm still sore from the trek, there's no way that the next morning I was going to do much of anything. One of the things I was most excited for in Indonesia was Flores, a beautiful island and base for Komodo National Park. The park is where you can see some Komodo dragons and do some of the best diving in the world. But when I first got to Lombok, I learned that I had wayyyyy underestimated how long it takes to get there---at least 24 hours by boat! Big whoops. Originally I planned to do Flores/Komodo after Lombok, but since I had already given up on that dream, I decided to just take it easy during my last few days. I went to Kuta Lombok, south on the island, a little surfer paradise. That's where I stayed the past few days, not doing much of anything. All week I've been battling a cold and feeling pretty sick (yes, trek included), so I'm glad I gave myself time to just chill. I'll get to Flores and Komodo one day!

While in Kuta I got a manicure, necessary due to the layers of dirt under any of my remaining unbroken nails. Clawing your way up a mountain can have that effect! I also got my last Asian massage, which was very needed. Mani and massage set me back about $10--it should be so easy to get spoiled back at home!!

And now it's pretty much all over. I'm waiting for flight number 1 of 4, ending in Newark almost 40 hours later. I can't believe I'm here already! It's been quite the adventure. 

Bali Bound

One day late on the blog (even with the time difference), but good morning and happy Father's Day dad!! I love you so much. And hey, I can bring you coffee in bed SO SOON!

When I first arrived to Bali, I was not immediately impressed. I started out in Kuta, the main backpacker zone and very close to the airport. I knew that it wasn't one of the nicest places, but I figured Bali is Bali, right? And it was really convenient since I was landing late. I found it to be frenetic, hassle-filled, crazy touristy...and the beach looked more like the jersey shore than paradise.
I'm aware that I'm spoiled though, and I still had a nice time.

My first morning in Bali I ran into an irish girl I had met in Malaysia; we were at the same hostel. This happens all the time on my travels! Such serendipity. (We've since done basically all of Indonesia together these past 2 weeks). I spent the day on the beach with her and the other girls from our dorm. I tried and failed miserably to surf, since Bali has world class surfing. I was wayyyyy too optimistic about my skills, and figured that since almost 5 years ago I stood up a few times on small waves, I didn't need a lesson. Major oops. I spent about an hour getting knocked around by massive waves, then returned my board with my tail between my legs. Ah well, at least I gave it a go. And once the sun came out later on, the beach looked much more beautiful. Capped off with an icy beer watching another spectacular sunset, I'd call the day a success.

Next was Ubud, a few hours away. I fell in love before getting out of the van; I want to live here. This may be the spot where Elizabeth Gilbert came in Eat, Pray, Love, and I can totally see why. It's a little hippie town, geared to yoga, health food stores, retreats, new age-y crap, countless stores with flowy dresses, and many retired expats. Very relaxed and welcoming vibe, cute little guesthouses dotting the narrow roads, Hindu temples, a monkey forest--and all set among hills and bright green rice fields. It was the kind of place I'd have gotten stuck in earlier in my trip. One of my favorite places for sure.

I spent a day walking through the stunning fields, stopping at villages and art shops along the way. Lovely day out in nature, the views were incredible, I found multiple dream houses...can you tell that I loved Ubud?!

Unfortunately that was all the time I had for Bali, and I know I didn't do it justice. There is SO much to see. Indonesia is maybe the first place where I really feel that I need to come back to, since I'm skipping so much on my wish list. So I'll definitely be back one day!!

Borneo or Bust

I spent a day and a half in Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. It was alright, but as expected, I didn't need any more time there. I did really enjoy the combination of really old mosques set alongside tall modern skyscrapers, and the Petronas Towers are cool. I also spent half a day exploring the Batu Caves, Indian caves with a Hindu shrine (and a gang of vicious little monkeys) 13k north of the city.

From KL I hopped a flight to Kota Kinabalu, on the eastern side of Borneo. My friend Nick, who I met in Thailand, is from KK, and per the travelers code, he invited me to come stay with him should I ever make it to the area. I never really expected to make it to Borneo, but with his invitation, I figured why not?! And I'm SO glad I did!

Borneo is gorgeoussssss!! My oh my. City, beach, jungle--at one point, all in one picture. Dayum.

For those of you who are limited in your southeast Asian geography, as I was before arriving--Malaysia is on 2 land masses, cut in half by the South China Sea. So you've got Peninsular Malaysia (sharing a border with Thailand up north), then you've got the island of Borneo (comprised of Malaysian Borneo, Brunei, and Indonesia).

The main tourist draw of KK is Mt. Kinabalu, the highest peak in SEA (outside of Papua, per lonely planet...). Borneo is known also for dense untouched jungle, world class diving, and an orangutan rescue center. I was meant to come only for 4 days or so, but I ended up staying a week. Nick and his family and friends were so lovely and welcoming, it was a really nice time. 

The days sort of blend together, so in no particular order, some of my activities included:

White water rafting. Really fun, slightly treacherous and our raft flipped over twice. Minus a little lump on my forehead, I escaped unharmed. The scenery was stunning around the river; it's only accessible by a rickety old train that rumbles through the jungle.

Wildlife center, aka a zoo. The orangutans I wanted to see were many hours away, so I figured it was much more economical and simpler to go to the zoo in town. Lazy? Maybe. Ah well. Saw lotssss of other animals, including tigers, bears, elephants, monkeys, and an ostrich that proceeded to legitimately breakdance when he felt we got too close. Rock on.

A day to Mt. Kinabalu national park. Slightly anticlimactic, as it was rainy and cloudy all day--so I never even got to see the mountain!! Fail. It's really really expensive to climb the mountain, so I gave up on that goal. Oops. But still a nice day, we did a canopy walk, saw a waterfall, and relaxed in some hot springs.

A group of nine of us spent an afternoon at a gorgeous island just 15min by boat from KK. Beautiful scenery, snorkeling, banana boat ride--really fun.

Lots of seafood and local yuminess.

Absolutely incredible sunsets overlooking the water. Nick told me when I arrived that "the sunsets are proof that god loves Borneo" and now I fully understand and have to agree.
We watched a sunset last night, and with sandy toes and a drink in hand, I told myself to remember this Monday when I'm back in the 9-5 world, cold and stressed and hating Mondays. Life is what you make it, a lesson I learn every day out here. 

The Saturday I was here was the annual harvest festival, so we checked out the event--beauty pageant, coconut wine, food, families, traditional clothing...good times. The celebrations were spread out over a few days, I spent wayy too much time drinking with Nick's many uncles. Hilarity ensued, lots of dancing Malaysian men and a whole lot of beer. As they said, I was just participating in the local culture.

Lots of time cuddling puppies, clean laundry, my own room/shower, home cooked food...all in all a lovely week. 

Where am I now, you ask? Oh, just waiting for my flight to Bali. No big deal.

I can't believe that I'm off to my final country of the trip! How is it June already?! I have a jam packed itinerary for Indonesia, it should be a great way to end this adventure. 

And I must admit, I'm getting excited about all the hugs I'm gonna get back home. I miss you all loads!

Insert Witty Title Here

My first week in Malaysia has been a whirlwind, but I'm absolutely loving it here! I really wish I had more time to explore. I was totally uneducated before arriving, really knowing very little about the country or what to expect. So I'm extra thrilled by how lovely it is! It's been a lot of moving and travel time, but I actually planned out a pretty solid itinerary so I'm happy with it. I don't really have the luxury of getting stuck in places anymore or I'll run out of time, but I can't complain!

First stop was Penang, after approximately 21 hours of travel from Thailand. I enjoyed wandering around the many Indian, Chinese, and Malay foods/sites/smells/buildings on small winding roads. It's been cool to see new things, switching from Buddhist Wats to mosques, Chinese temples, and churches. Women walk in hijabs or saris, incense burn from the small shops--it's just a really interesting and beautiful blend of cultures. I loved the energy in Penang, with consistently busy streets, running children, markets, and smiling faces. People have been super friendly as well. As a bonus, Penang is known for its street food, so it was (mostly Indian and Chinese) food galore. 

Next stop, Perhentian islands, because clearly I hadn't had enough beach time. After a bumpy and uncomfortable overnight bus journey where I didn't really sleep at all, I saw my 3rd sunrise in 4 days. I slept on the beach all afternoon and recovered nicely, not to worry. I was also able to do another dive, and I saw so many huge fish, a manta ray, and a shark! 

Next up was Taman Negara, Malaysia's  largest national park, and by some accounts the oldest rainforest in the world. I did a night jungle walk and saw some creepy crawlies, plus a really big tapir and a porcupine. Sadly, no larger animals, which was to be expected. But deeper in the jungle live elephants, tigers, and panthers. Would have loved to see them! Ah well. I spent a day trekking in the jungle, including a canopy walk and some pretty views. We also successfully found a "swimming hole," but it looked really muddy and dirty so our dreams of cooling off in the water were dashed. The day reminded me a bit of Costa Rica; it was a beautiful area.

Now I'm in the Cameron highlands, where I spent yesterday trekking up and through muddy paths--I think in total we walked something like 20k. The area is known for beautiful nature and a cooler climate (I actually wore long sleeves and my fleece for a bit!!), and as a result, it's perfect for lots of plantations: tea, butterflies, bees, and strawberries. So we stopped at strawberry and tea plantations for respite, and I enjoyed a strawberry ice pop and then a strawberry pastry and tea while overlooking the sprawling green fields/hills. Parts of the hike were pretty steep, muddy, and treacherous, but the treats made it all worth it. 

Today is a relaxed day, with a short walk to get my nature fix, then eating strawberry goodies and tea all day. I walked around the small town a lot as well--my legs are aching now! The cooler climate has also been such a nice change of pace.

So one week down, one week to go in Malaysia! I still have Kuala Lumpur and Borneo to hit, so I bus to KL tomorrow morning to start that. The countdown to home is definitely on, but there's still lots left on my wish list before that time comes!

Island Hopping

Wake up

Sunblock, bikini, flip flops? Check.

Beach! Read. Tan. Snooze. Swim. Snooze. Read. 

Banana shake. Pad thai/fried rice/curry.

Maybe drinks on the beach. Possibly dance. 

Which island should I go to next? Should I go tomorrow or the next day? 

Ill sleep on it.

Repeat.

That's basically been my life for the past 3 weeks. There have been some long days of travel, lots of planning the last (eek!) month of my trip, and many mosquito bites, but overall, life has been pretty good. And hot!

There's only so many ways to describe beach/island life, but just some highlights:

-Day boat trips to snorkel and check out small islands 

-Meeting some really wonderful people 

-Visiting Maya Bay, where they filmed The Beach. Sadly Leo wasn't there, and it's jam packed with hordes of tourists, but still beautiful!

-Full Moon party last night and watching the sun rise over the beach (while hundreds of people did the YMCA--quite a sight).

-Having dinner with an English friend of mine who I haven't seen in 2 years. We just happened to be on the same island at the same time. Small world!

I've also been planning a jam packed itinerary for my short time in NY in June, so I'm getting excited for that! Time is flying!!

Tonight I head to Malaysia! Thailand has been incredible, but I'm ready for the next stamp in my passport! 

Swimming with the Fishies

I am officially a certified scuba diver! I spent about a week on Ko Tao, an island a few hours off of the mainland, and spent about 6 days diving. Getting here was a 24 hour adventure--I could have made it home in the same amount of time! Left Joc's apt at 645am and discovered that the 8am train I wanted was full. "Ok, when's the next train?" "1pm." Oops. So I was 5 1/2 hours in the train station, a 9 1/2 hour train ride, a quick moto ride to the pier, then a 6-7 overnight ferry ride to the island. Ooof. But I made it!

I did a 4 day open water course to get certified, meaning I can dive anywhere in the world up to 18meters. Then I stayed on to do the advanced course (because money grows on trees, right?) so now I'm certified to dive up to 30 meters, the limit for recreational diving. 

It was amazing!! I've always loved water and swimming and snorkeling, so after the initial "oh wow this is weird I'm uncomfortable how am i still breathing under water ah my ears are popping wait shit how do I float" etc etc, it was great. And you start in the classroom and the pool, so you feel ready for the sea. Rough life, I had to do homework and take an exam and talk about physics. I'm sure you all feed bad for me. 

I learned to hover upside down and "mission impossible," style (ie on my stomach just above the sand/coral), did a navigation dive (and only got a litttttle lost), a night dive, a wreck dive at an old WWII ship, a deep dive (up to 30m), and saw lots of cool fish and coral. It felt like I was in Finding Nemo--and we did see the only 5 little clown fish at the dive site, so I found him! To be honest, I saw more while snorkeling in the Galapagos than I did diving here, but I guess when you start at the pinnacle, that's to be expected. So I can't complain! 

Diving is a really expensive hobby--of course the only athletics I'm good at are skiing and diving. Why couldn't I be good at basketball?! But even though this took a massive portion of my budget, Ko Tao is actually one of the cheapest places to dive and get certified in the world. I've always always always wanted to scuba dive, so it just made sense to do it here. I'm hoping to dive again in Indonesia for sure, and maybe Malaysia if I can swing it.

Tonight I'm off overnight to Krabi,

on the other coast, where i'll island hop for about 2ish more weeks. 

Summary: I'm tan and happy and exhausted and feeling good! 

Songkran

Happy(belated) Thai new year! You all missed quite the celebration. Songkran is absolute madness--it reminded me of carnaval, but with water guns. At night the streets are like Times Square on New Year's Eve. Songkran is basically a 4 day country wide water fight. Everyone is out, everyone is drunk, everyone is trying to soak you with water and smear this goopy white paste onto your face. Good times. 
Apparently in Thailand its a thing to sprinkle water for good luck, so the water symbolizes good luck in the new year? Or something like that. But over the years I guess it's morphed into a huge crazy party. It was SO nice that I was staying with Joc, my friend who lives in Bangkok. It was a few crazy days, and such a unique experience. Really fun. 

While in Bangkok I made an impulse purchase and flew round trip back to Cambodia for a few days. Had a nice time in Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville (beach), and now I have a slightly extended visa for Thailand since I got another 30 days when I flew back. Win.

Also, before Songkran started, I was able to explore Bangkok a little more. I also took a 2 hour meditation course at a Wat, led by a monk, which was an interesting experience. 

I also have my return ticket home now, which feels weird and sad and final--but I'm also really excited! Looks like ill be in NY June 18-29 an Boston until July 3rd. If you're on the east coast, pencil me in! 

Sending big ol hugs and kisses home to everyone!!

So much Asia, So little time

My recent travels: Working my way from the north to central Thailand, then Bangkok and then finallyyyy beaches in the south. Here's where I've been--

Sukhothai: ancient capital, old city with temples, day of exploring said temples in approximately 106 degree heat. Melted. Ate 60cent pad thai for dinner and felt rejuvenated.

Kamphaeng Phet: small little town, stayed in an adorable and super quirky guesthouse set around a lovely garden where I relaxed a lot to beat the heat. Spent a day with a retired Canadian guy who invited me to come along on his bike to see a waterfall about 60k away. (Anything in or near water is always a good idea when it's this hot). We never ended up finding the waterfall we set out for but we did end up (we think) at the correct national park and spent the afternoon by a river. Very much off the tourist map, just lots of thai families spending the day. It was really nice!

Lopburi: another city with old temples; I saw some from the outside for a few minutes and decided I was over it a little. Too hot. Didn't go in. Don't regret it. (The main temple sites here are Sukhothai and Ayuthaya, so I got my fill. Don't need to see them all). The city is mainly known for its monkeys, which are everywhere. They run all over the place and, while cute, are evil and mischievous little shits. Fun to watch them though, from a safe distance...

Ayuthaya: Temples. Are we sensing a theme here? I really love the temples and really, they do each have their own distinct charm and features. But I'm starting to get a bit templed out, they're all starting to blend together. 

I accidentally and so deliciously found a hostel with a little pool, so I spent most of my time there. Don't judge. 

My first night in Ayuthaya I did an evening boat ride that went to 3 temples-much better than walking! Fantastic plan. The next day I went to see 2 or 3 of the main temples with a guy from New Zealand, then we spent the rest of the afternoon in the pool. So not all that much sight seeing, but I couldn't have been happier. Are you sensing how bloody hot it is out here?

Bangkok: Whew. What a city, such a blur of colors and sights and sounds and smells. I like it here, but don't really feel like I know the city yet. You'd need a lot of time to get settled and acclimated. I kept myself occupied with busy nightlife, the Grand Palace and really impressive Wats, walking Chinatown for a bit, visiting a massive weekend market (largest market in Thailand and the worlds largest weekend market, per Wikipedia), and just walking around. 

Esteban, who I traveled with up north, met me in Bangkok, and we then spent a few days on Koh Samet. Yes ladies and gents, I know you've all been concerned so you can rest easy now--I finally made it to a thai island. I even ate pad thai on a thai beach, so cross that off the bucket list. 

Samet is in the east side, pretty close to Bangkok (4 hours bus, 1 hour ferry), and not known to be one of the nicer beaches. (The southern peninsula gets all the hype/postcard pictures). Well, color me impressed. It was gorgeous--white sand, turquoise water, beach bungalows...our balcony was overlooking the sea. No better place to start the day with a cup of coffee. We stayed pretty far away from everything, it was really quiet and peaceful--a great intro to thai beaches!! I worked on my tan quite a bit.

Now I'm back in Bangkok, where ill be for a while to celebrate the Thai new year. 

I'm starting to feel like I'm running out of time! There is still so much left on my wish list, and even my realistic plans are feeling a bit rushed. I know, I know, cry me a river, I may only get to go to some of the beaches I wanted to go to, and I have less time for Malaysia/Indonesia than I wanted. Not such bad problems to have, but still things to plan and think about and decide.

Speaking of...by my next blog post I should have a flight back to New York booked. Eeek! Time is flying!

Northern Loop

Just a quick update, all good here!

After finishing my time in Pai, I continued heading north to do a loop that would ultimately end in Chiang Mai, the only feasible way to then go South. I had met 4 British girls (Frankie, Rosie, Rosie, Lucy) and an Argntine guy (Esteban) in Chiang Mai, we all somehow reunited in Pai, and then I spent the next week traveling with Esteban. We took the very local bus 4 hours to Mae Hong Son. It was an old rickety bus with no seats left for us, so I sat on someone's backpack and Esteban stood in the open doorframe. Note that this road is known for how curvy and windy it is. It actually wasn't as bad as it sounds, but it was an experience!
I was excited for northern Thailand for the spectacular views and dense nature, and while I've had a great time, it's been a little disappointing. Every year at this time, all of the crops/fields are burned (to replenish; works for the short term, really bad for long term sustainability). But this means that everything is super smokey, the sky is grey, and you can't really see any views. So while there have been a lot of "oh wow, look at that view" moments, they are more likely "that view would be amazing if we could see it! I think there's a mountain there. Is that a river?" And it started to make my throat hurt after a few days, so much smoke! Sooooo between the smoke and the sweltering heat, I think I might make my way south faster than expected. Get this girl to a beach!

Mae Hong Son was nice, we met up with a Swiss girl, an English girl, and a French guy, and spent 2ish days together. There's a really pretty lake, some temples, and another temple on top of
a hill that we walked to. As I explained, it was nice but we could barely see the view. Ah well, its the company that counts!

Next stop was Mae Sariang, also known for nature and beautiful surroundings. Esteban and I spent the afternoon we arrived wandering the small town, then the next day we rented a bike and rode about 20k to a waterfall in a really pretty park area. Lots of green and prettiness, I was happy!

Then it was back to Chiang Mai for 2 nights. More temples, great food, and wandering. We also played pool a lot, and I'm starting to get a liiiittle bit better. Plus I got to practice my Spanish, which was very needed with all of these Asian languages floating around in my head. It was a really nice week.

Now I'm farther South, more towards the center of the country. I may melt, and I find it nearly impossible to believe that its practically April, but otherwise I'm happy!!

Finally, finally: Thailand

The day after my jungle trek was all about travel. But when your final destination is Thailand, who can complain? The outline of my day: bus to tuk tuk to the border, crossed easily (and began day 1 of my 60 day visa), shuttle bus to tuk tuk to bus. Phew. I was on the same bus as a lovely French girl I had already met, so it was nice having a friendly face to journey with. We arrived in Chiang Rai, up in northern Thailand, in the late afternoon, and I spent 2 days in this city.
I'm definitely not in Laos/Cambodia any more. My oh my, Thailand is SO much more developed. This means too that it's much more touristy. I anticipate many future blog posts mentioning that I "really liked x location, but it was super touristy." Oh well, i'll get over it. But it was a little disappointing to see my first McDonalds and Starbucks out here.
After 2 days of wandering, temples, a cool night market (where at long last I had pad thai in Thailand, major life goal achieved), and getting back clean laundry (so exciting), I planned to go farther up north. I learned though that to get to all of the northern destinations I had in mind, I first needed to go through Chiang Mai, farther south. A bit of a pain, but no big deal--so off to Chiang Mai I went.
I spent 4 nights in this lovely city, and it's easy to see why so many people get stuck here. It was more wandering and temples, huge and dizzying night markets, desperately looking for AC and sucking down fruit shakes in 100+ degree heat, and meeting some really great people. I took a thai cooking class  and made some really yummy food: red curry, pad thai, chicken soup in coconut broth, and sticky rice with mangoes. So now I've done some cooking in each country I've been to (Singapore not included, unless you count the peanut butter banana Nutella sandwich I made), and I'm pretty committed to coming home, buying the obscure ingredients, and cooking more Asian food. So delish. 

Speaking of food. I'm in heaven here in Thailand. I think the real reason I booked this entire trip was so I could eat thai food in Thailand. Only sort of kidding. (Ok, and the Thai beaches. I'll get there soon enough). I plan to eat my way through the country, with pad thai, curry, noodles, and soups galore. Pretty much everywhere has local markets and street food, so for a dollar or two I will be eating some of the best food ever.
Nommmm

I also got a desperately needed haircut in Chiang Mai, courtesy of the owner of my hostel who used to work as a stylist in San Francisco. I was a bit nervous about a free rooftop haircut in Thailand with a pair of old scissors, but it all worked out for the best. Although in this heat, I almost told him to shave my head like the monks. They know what's up.
I spent an afternoon with a guy from my hometown who is volunteering at an elephant project about an hour from CM. (Thanks Leslie for the contact!) He met me for lunch in the city then drove me out to the project, and I got to hang with the elephants. And there was a baaaaaby elephant and I got to play with her and it was amazing and I want one. Mom and dad, it's either a puppy or an elephant. Your move. (A piglet would be acceptable too).

Now I'm in Pai, a few hours farther north. It's a super tiny, really chilled out town. Hmm wow ill do it already: I really like it here but it's suuuuuper touristy. It's just a few streets with cafes, restaurants, tour companies, and bars. It's filled with backpackers and old white expats who have dreads and bandanas and play guitar. Its a very relaxed scene here with a rasta/reggae vibe. Every day the electricity goes out at some point, but at night its actually really nice--everything is dotted with candles, the streets get quieter, the stars are gorgeous--just really peaceful! 

The surrounding countryside is beautiful, but you need a bike to explore. Luckily I met a cool girl from Switzerland at my hostel, so we spent a day cruising around the area, relaxing at a nearby waterfall/swimming hole to beat the heat, and checking out a temple/big buddah statue on a hill overlooking the city. Some folks I met in CM are also here now, so it's been nice hanging with them some more. I keep extending my stay here! I expect to leave tomorrow though.

So, about one week down here in Thailand. The country is huge and I'm not exactly sure what ill be doing or where ill be going, but ill be making my way down south. There are so many opportunities here, I've looked into wwoofing (organic farming), volunteering, and some meditation retreats/courses. Not sure yet what will pan out, but I'm enjoying myself so far!! Anyone who secretly dreams of coming to join me for a little while: do it now!

Jungle Trekking (Or, for mom, "There's no wifi in the jungle")

 I ended my time in Laos with a 3 day jungle trek, based in Luang Nam Tha, up in the northwest. I was with a French guy who I had previously met in Cambodia and then ran into in like 3 or 4 different places. We were in the same bus from Luang Prabang to nam tha. It was quite the long, windy, bumpy bus ride--about 6 of the 8 hours of it on unpaved road, for extra fun. On the ride, I also met a Russian couple and their 9 month old son. They have been backpacking with him for the past seven months. Yeah, you did the math right on that one. Can you even imagine?! I think this couple is inspiring and crazy and amazing and masochistic. Also, Karin and Doug, you've now got one less excuse to come meet me in Thailand with the nugget. Justsayyyin. 

The trek itself was fun--tiring and at times very difficult. When you do treks for more than a day, obviously you go much farther info the jungle. This means it's more dense and..well, jungle-y. During parts of our walk I felt like I was going to fall off the side of the mountain. And some of it was really slippery, mainly due to some really steep climbs up and straight down. Dad, I kept hearing your voice in my head from when you were teaching me to drive (and every subsequent Fall of my life, come to think of it) warning me about how slippery leaves are. But slow and steady, we had a nice trek. It was myself, the French guy, and another French couple. And the guides. We slept one night in a wooden hut and another night in tents, ate sticky rice with all seven meals, and ate bamboo, rattan, and various other ingredients straight from the jungle. Also went to bathe in a river and discovered little baby leeches on my feet, so shower didn't happen. Eek. 

We came back smelly and exhausted and sore; I may be a little trekked out for a while/the rest of my trip. 

Now I'm in hothothot Thailand; next post will be on my first week here! 

Northern Laos

I enjoyed the rest of my time in the capital, escaping the blazing sun in cafes and wandering. I even splurged and got a nice $4 western lunch--a panini with mozzarella, pesto, and roasted peppers. Amazing. I don't know how ill ever go back to paying US prices for things!! I walked to the top of an arc de triumph (Terry, thought of you!) and, shockingly, saw some temples. I got my 60 day thai visa as well, which is exciting!

I also visited the COPE center, and left very moved and with a heavy heart. The COPE center is an organization that primary works to fund medical care for Lao folks who have lost limbs, mainly due to unexploded ordinances (UXOs). Did you know that Laos is, per capita, the most heavily bombed country in the world? Most people don't know the history of this country, I sure didn't, but it's really heartbreaking. Laos was heavily caught in the crossfire of the Vietnam war. Not only did the famed Ho Chi Minh Trail run through Laos as well, but if bomb targets were missed, the bombs were often just dropped in designated areas in Laos. Awful. And worse, approximately 30% of these bombs didn't detonate properly---and they are quite literally ticking time bombs, still as dangerous as they were the day they were dropped. Today, and since the 70s, people have been regularly killed when coming across these UXOs. They are mainly in rural areas, and Lao people are heavily reliant on the land for their survival. So in one of the poorest countries in the world, the poorest of the poor must decide every day--work in the fields and risk an explosion--or starve? For most, the choice is easy, but can be fatal.

So anyway. The COPE center has really informative displays about prosthetic limbs and care being provided to victims, and really great documentaries about the country and its history in the war that "never really happened," since technically Laos wasn't involved. I heard stories of families affected by UXOs, as well as other services being provided--education to children and communities about what the bombs look like (so they don't pick them up/play with them), and most critically, teams that go out and safely find and detonate UXOs. It's mind boggling to me that small organizations are relying on donations to fund these removal efforts. There are millions of bombs left to be cleared. How the US government hasn't paid to safely rid the country of these bombs is literally beyond my comprehension. There is so much to be done here--education, bomb removal and training, medical and mental health care--remember when I said I could do social work in Phnom Penh? Add Laos to the list.
I could go on for ages, I find this (untold in the western world) history fascinating and heartbreaking and horrible and inspiring...I hope I'm explaining it clearly! It gave me a lot to think about. Also at one point, we chatted for a bit with a woman who worked there. My favorite bit of the conversation: "So, what do you do here?" "Oh, I'm the CEO." Oh, ok. Gotcha.

After 3 nights in Vientiane I kept making my way north, still with my British friend Catherine (we met our first day in the capital). We went to vang vieng, set among gorgeous mountains. The town has become completely set up for tourism, it's one of the very few places in laos with a party atmosphere, a bit trashy--but it's really pretty, activities abound, and food/accommodation are really cheap. I spent a day doing river tubing, the most popular activity with the backpacker crowd. It's a bit stupid but fun, and it was actually one of the first things I read about SEA months ago, and before I even knew for sure I was coming here, I said, "I'm going to go there and do that." And I did! You rent a tube for the day and are driven 4k up the river, and you make your way back slowly. There are bars along the water and you pull over and stop for a drink--good fun. And it was over 100 degrees the day I did it, so anything on the water is a nice respite.
The next day Catherine and I rented bikes and rode to an organic farm, where we enjoyed mulberry pancakes, bread, and goat cheese. Heaven! We then saw that the farm is involved with lots of nonprofit work, so we asked if we could volunteer or help out at all. We ended up cleaning bottles, to be used for the mulberry wine they sell, and we helped pick some mulberries. As a thank you, we got to sample the mulberry juice and wine--yum! So a very random but fun day.

Now I'm in Luang Prabang, a really charming city with a European feel. The old quarter is UNESCO protected, so it's clean and beautiful and restored. It's a few days here for colonial buildings, French cafes galore, a huge night market, a nearby waterfall, and--you guessed it--lots of temples. It really doesn't feel like Laos, it's a world away. But it's lovely, and I'm really enjoying my time here!

Update: I have officially eaten my body weight in pastries. I regret nothing.
(Although, a 3 day trek up north, my next stop, isn't such a bad idea...)

Update 2: I found a bagel with cream cheese in Laos. My little Jewish heart is so happy. If only they had lox...

I recognize that I'm talking about food a lot. Whatever. I do love Asian food, thank god, but after a few months its nice to have some western treats. Ill be back to noodles and rice in no time. 

Working My Way Through Laos

Hello from Vientiane, the capital of Laos. I've been making my way up the country, and am getting closer to the north now. The wifi in this country goes from nonexistent to painfully slow, so my apologies that I've been--and will continue to be--a little MIA this month. But I'm still doing great!

I've been stopping in small little towns and moving relatively quickly from place to place. It's been a lot of watching the countryside roll by though bus windows!

After I left Pakse I spent 2 nights in Tat Lo, a sleepy little village with beautiful scenery all around. I was staying with a French girl for most of the time and we spent our days walking a lot, seeing waterfalls and a small village, reading, relaxing, and enjoying the laid back atmosphere. We also spent a night cooking at a guesthouse and then eating a delicious meal with the family who runs it. Yum!

I stopped off in Champasak for a night on my way North, but there was really nothing to do in this small city so the next morning, after walking around for a while, I kept moving, up to Thakhek.

For a long time now I've been looking forward to my time in Tha Khek. The city itself is nothing to write home about, but many travelers do "the loop," a 3-4 day moto ride through the countryside, stopping off to see the many caves in the area, enjoying the gorgeous mountains towering around you, and sleeping in small guesthouses in little villages. It's a way to get off the beaten path, you can interact more with locals, and it's just meant to be a really fun way to see more of central Laos. I don't drive a moto but its always easy to hop on the back of someones bike and tag along, which is what I planned to do.

No such luck. Apparently it's really difficult to do the loop without your own bike; lots of long bumpy roads, so along with your backpack (a small one, but still), its not really a trip meant for 2 people. And I wasn't with  anyone with a bike anyway, so it just wasn't working out. I thought about learning to ride a bike; i'm  sure it's really easy, and there are SO many times in Asia where everything wold be so much easier with your own wheels. Pretty much everyone traveling in Asia rents a bike at some point, tons of people use them throughout their whole trip. It gives you so much freedom, opportunity, an adventure. But alas, safety first for me, I just didn't feel comfortable doing it, so I gave up the idea of doing the loop. Ah well. I met up with others who weren't doing the loop , but instead organized a tuk tuk tour around the area. I joined up with them, and we basically did the first part of the loop. We stopped at 4 caves, and then ended the day at a lake. It was really nice, and a good compromise since I wasn't doing the full 4 day adventure. I felt satisfied. 

The same group (2 German girls, a German guy, and a French Canadian couple) all got up early the next morning to go to Kong Lo cave. It's a bit out of the way and a pain to get to, but really worth it! And the ride there is beautiful with more mountain scenery. The cave itself is massive, we rode through the 7.5kilometers (!) in little boats, headlamps at the ready since its super dark inside. At some places it's up to 100 meters high. Really impressive! 

The next morning 5 of the 6 of us caught an early bus to Vientiane, where I am now. (Like I said, lots of buses!) I arrived here yesterday afternoon, and will likely stay 3 nights. There's not much to do but wander and eat, but that's ok with me. I applied for a 60day Thai visa today (a few hours of bureaucratic inconvenience but not too bad), and I pick up my visa and passport tomorrow. This way, I can spend the full 2 months in Thailand without having to do a border run and/or leave the country. 
I also had lunch today with my friend Sheyla, who has been living here for about 2 years now. I know her through Yana and Chita, and haven't seen her since their wedding almost 2 years ago. (Wow, guys, 2 years!?!? Really?!) She is just the loveliest and warmest person ever, and it was such a treat to see her. It's always nice to see a friendly face while traveling. Ill hopefully see her again before I leave; it was a real spot of sunshine (not that I need more sun here...) seeing her smiling face.


So all is well. Time is absolutely flying  by, I cannot understand how it's almost March. Someone please slow down the clock!! I'm starting to think more clearly about the rest of my trip, it looks like ill be in Laos through mid March (1-2 more weeks), Thailand for about 2 months or so, then hopefully I can still squeeze in Indonesia and Malaysia before heading back to the US. Not sure if that's possible, but ill try! This can change at any time, but for now, that's the plan. It's hard to decide, once you're in this part of the world you want to see everything, since its so close! I hear incredible things about Myanmar, I've always wanted to go to India, China is just a bus ride away...and don't even get me started on Australia...and from there, of course New Zealand and Fiji...eeep. (This is all I do on long bus rides). But those are trips for another day, can't do it all now. Just have to enjoy the time I have here now! I'm a lucky girl :)

Laos Begins

I arrived safely in Laos a few days ago, with relatively easy transport and the requisite border overcharging and annoyances. At this particular border, they "charge" for each passport stamp--$2 to leave Cambodia, $3 to enter Laos. And I know that I paid way too much for my visa. But I didn't have the energy to fight it so I just paid and moved on. Oh, corruption.

My first stop was Don Det island, part of 4000 islands (Si Phan Don). I spent 3 nights in a bungalow overlooking the Mekong with 2 lovely girls I met on the bus, and I easily could have spent more time there. One main dirt road runs parallel to the river, plus a few others run off of it, passing by only locals, pigs, chickens, buffalo, dogs, cats,  waving children, and of course, western travelers and guesthouses, bungalows, restaurants, and bars to cater to them. The main area is actually quite touristy, but in a sleepy, relaxed sort of way. I imagine i'll describe much of Laos as "sleepy." In fact, the country has an 11pm curfew, so everything pretty much shuts down around then or earlier anyway--usually until a rooster or fisherman wakes you up.

The official name of the country is Laos PDR--people's democratic republic. But the joke is that it stands for "please don't rush." I have a feeling that won't be a joke though...

After a few hours the first afternoon and night feeling really sick, throwing up in some bushes, and deciding that I had contracted dengue fever, I took some medicine, went to sleep I think around 8pm, and woke up the next morning feeling fine! Phew. I took it easy that day, walking around and lazing in a hammock. The next day I did a full day kayaking tour. We kayaked a ton, walked through a village to see a small waterfall, swam, saw dolphins, visited the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia (beautiful and very impressive!), and got back to Don Det as the sun was starting to set over the water. It was a somewhat unorganized tour but we had a good time. And my arms/neck/shoulders hurt so much after, it was quite a workout!

Also of note (to me at least), I finally

had my first Pad Thai in Asia. I was trying to hold out until Thailand, but I couldn't wait any more. And Laos has close ties to Thailand, so it's supposedly really similar. And I was not disappointed. Nommmm. I could live on Thai food...it's basically why I decided to do this whole trip: pad thai on a Thai beach. Ok kidding, sort of. But I was a happy happy girl. I already know I'm going to be that super annoying person who, upon eating at an Asian restaurant, shakes her head sadly after one bite and sighs "it's just not the same...when I was in ______...(insert name of country here). I already do it with hummus, and Mexican food...let's add spring rolls and pho and pad Thai and I guess all Asian food to the list. I'm sorry in advance. Please still eat meals with me. 

With my visa I have a month to spend here in Laos, which sounds like a lot of time but it really isn't! So I'm feeling a tiny bit rushed, as there's so many places I want to see here. I'm starting to make my way up north now.

 I spent my first night on the mainland in tiny Champasak, known for the beautiful (and UNESCO heritage site) Wat Phu Champasak, reminiscent of the Angkorian temples. (I wonder how many temples and wats I've seen on this trip?!) I met up with 3 Aussies and 2 Germans en route, and after arriving in town around 2pm we dumped our bags in a guesthouse and went right to Wat Phu. Lots of stairs in blazing hot sun, beautiful views of the Mekong valley, really peaceful and shady area at the top...nice place to check out. Sidenote, I know that back home winter is giving y'all a beating, and I'm thrilled to be missing it. But I believe that I'm entering the hottest time in SEA (March and April will be the worst, and it's starting now). I know you don't feel bad for me at the moment, you shouldn't, and I do love the heat, but eeeeesh. If you saw my hair you'd understand.

Now I'm in Pakse, a shit little city that I'm just in for a day to grab a connecting bus further north tomorrow morning. I'm going to Tat Lo next, part of the Bolaven Plateau. I don't know much about it, but it's known for coffee and waterfalls--and a slightly cooler climate--so it sounds like a place for me!!

I'm just trying to keep my head on straight with so many languages and currencies constantly changing. Just when I start to get the hang of things, it all changes on me! I think I've finally stopped saying "thank you" in Khmer instead of Lao, and I'm just starting to work out the math on Kip, the Lao currency. I was spoiled in Cambodia, did I ever mention that they use the US dollar? Their currency is the riel but its basically useless, so everyone works in dollars. The ATMs give out dollars, not riel, if that tells you anything. But they give you change in riel, you use it for small purchases, and you can use a combination of the 2 currencies, so effectively you're using both at once. Oy. I do miss the ease of south/central America, where almost every country speaks the same language. It also helps enormously  that I speak said language. But alas, I'm learning new things all the time out here! 

Keep on emailing me updates on your lives, I LOVE getting them. Ive been gone for 3 months now, I'm sure you have at least one story for me! And iPhone users (hey Cam, is that you yet?!??), remember that you can text and FaceTime me any time (just keeping in mind the time difference). When I have wifi ill get it!

Sending hugs and kisses to you all! 

Kampuchea: Come for 4 weeks, stay for 7

The first stop on my journey to the northeast was Kampong Cham, set along the Mekong. There's not much to do, but it's a nice stop for a day or two. I went to see a pre-Angkorian (10th century?) temple, which was beautiful but I'm spoiled now. After the temples in Siem Reap, no others will ever compare. I also walked across the bamboo bridge, which is...wait for it...a bridge made out of bamboo. Apparently it washes away during each rainy season and is rebuilt entirely from scratch every December. I never really did figure out the logic here. It was cool to walk over the Mekong though. It's a bit rickety (mom, you'd love it) but incredibly stable. Cars and motos can cross it with no problem. 

Next town was Kratie. I've described many parts of Cambodia as "sleepy little towns on a river." Kratie (pronounced Krah-cheh) was instead, as my guidebook indicated, a "lively" town on the Mekong. After arriving I spent some time wandering the area and the market, staring at a map of Cambodia while in a hammock (trying to plan the rest of my time here), and watching a beautiful sunset over the river.

That evening I met Tom from England at dinner when the waitress randomly just sat me down at his table when I asked to be seated. Ok then. Luckily it tuned out that he had also just arrived to Kratie and was deciding what to do the next day. I told him what I had planned and we decided to spend the day together. The following morning we took a quick boat ride to a nearby island for a 9k bike ride through some beautiful villages. The bicycles were in horrible condition (ie the brakes on mine didn't exactly work) so we just took it slow in the hot hot hot sun and enjoyed the scenery. Later that afternoon after some lunch and beers by the water, we went to see some freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins. These animals are incredibly endangered, I think there's only about  the left in the Mekong. It was a bit anticlimactic but we saw a few of them and had a nice sunset towatch from the boat. It was a really nice day.

After Kratie I kept heading north to Mondulkiri. I met some cool girls on the bus and ended up rooming with Kirsten, a social worker from Germany. We spent the next few days together. Also by "bus," I mean ridiculously overcrowded minivan where they shoved (at one count) 23 people inside. You have to pay more for your own seat, which I did not do. Lots of sweaty grossness and discomfort for a few hours, and probably my least favorite ride in Asia so far. Ooof. 

Before I left for Asia, one of my "must do's" was to ride an elephant, like a typical tourist. But I looove elephants and how can you not do it?! But since arriving here, I read up a lot on it and talked to a lot of people--it's a really abusive and exploitive industry, so after much deliberation, I was set that I just couldnt support it. Instead, I decided to volunteer at an elephant project in Mondulkiri that rescues abused elephants. You get to watch them in a natural habitat, walk and swim with them, help out with any needed tasks, and support a good cause. Cool beans, right? Not so easy.

I got to the area and learned about the massive controversy in the town. Long story short, the elephant project (Western owned, I should add) purports that all elephant riding is abusive, don't do the jungle treks with elephants because its horrible, done and done. But then the local side of the story is that the project is exploiting volunteers and the community, local guides are becoming unemployed, basically the project is a scam and instead support those who need the money. So what to believe?

I was super confused, but after talking to some locals (and learning that the dates I wanted at the project were booked), I ultimately decided to do a 2 day jungle trek that included elephants at the end of the last day. Kirsten and I, along with two folks from Australia, set off the following morning. We had a nice day of walking through the jungle, swimming at a waterfall, and staying in a local homestay in a village (the village  consisted of approximately 20 people, in 3 houses, and lots of pigs, chickens, dogs, etc). 

Day #2 started with more trekking to another waterfall, then more walking until we saw elephants waiting for us! They are such amazing animals and I was in love. Sadly, it did seem as though they were not treated so well, and we were all pretty uncomfortable with it the whole time. It was a nice experience riding them but I wouldn't do it again and can't recommend it with a clear conscience. My favorite part of the day was swimming with the elephants and washing them, which was unreal. At the end of the day, I hope my money went to the locals and that I made the right choice to do it. I have many complicated thoughts on this issue. 

Also, a local guy from town who opened the guesthouse I stayed in and helped arrange the trek told us that he "doesn't go fishing in the river, only in the pub." So that made me laugh. 

After Mondulkiri I backtracked for a few final days in Phnom Penh, including a trip to an animal rescue sanctuary/zoo. Lots of animals during this week! Now I'm back on track in the northeast, after an almost 12 hour bus ride to get here. It was supposed to be 9 hours, but whose counting? Lots of bumps and horrible but hilarious Asian music videos, bloody movies/action films, and game shows to keep me awake. Also a bag of undetermined contents that randomly moved by my feet. I'm guessing chickens? And this was one of the big fancy buses! Ah, Cambodia.

I got off of this magical bus ride in Ban Lung, a town in the Ratanakiri province. I met a guy at my hostel who was doing what I wanted to do the next day--and he has a bike, so he invited me to come with him. We rode out to a waterfall about 7k away, then to another one about 20k away. We got lost multiple times looking for the second one, and the roads are super bumpy and just completely covered in dust, so by the time we found the waterfall it was like seeing a mirage in the desert. Everything was completely covered in dust, my clothes and hair and face were just brown. And the ride was so bumpy that we lost our bananas and water bottles (my good camelback water bottle, :-(, RIP). So our swim in the waterfall was immensely enjoyed. Then we ended the day swimming in a volcanic crater lake and watching the sunset.

And now, after 7 weeks, it's my last day in this beautiful, warm, chaotic, often frustrating, always interesting, exciting country. I have loved my time here, but I'm feeling ready for what comes next. 

Tomorrow I cross into Laos, where I should be for the next month. I am expecting a long day of travel, full of bumpy rides, border mayhem and overcharging, and general confusion. But as long as all goes to plan, and by nightfall I am safe and sound on Don Det island with a beerlao in my hand, I will be happy.

Here's to the next step of the journey!