Laos Begins

I arrived safely in Laos a few days ago, with relatively easy transport and the requisite border overcharging and annoyances. At this particular border, they "charge" for each passport stamp--$2 to leave Cambodia, $3 to enter Laos. And I know that I paid way too much for my visa. But I didn't have the energy to fight it so I just paid and moved on. Oh, corruption.

My first stop was Don Det island, part of 4000 islands (Si Phan Don). I spent 3 nights in a bungalow overlooking the Mekong with 2 lovely girls I met on the bus, and I easily could have spent more time there. One main dirt road runs parallel to the river, plus a few others run off of it, passing by only locals, pigs, chickens, buffalo, dogs, cats,  waving children, and of course, western travelers and guesthouses, bungalows, restaurants, and bars to cater to them. The main area is actually quite touristy, but in a sleepy, relaxed sort of way. I imagine i'll describe much of Laos as "sleepy." In fact, the country has an 11pm curfew, so everything pretty much shuts down around then or earlier anyway--usually until a rooster or fisherman wakes you up.

The official name of the country is Laos PDR--people's democratic republic. But the joke is that it stands for "please don't rush." I have a feeling that won't be a joke though...

After a few hours the first afternoon and night feeling really sick, throwing up in some bushes, and deciding that I had contracted dengue fever, I took some medicine, went to sleep I think around 8pm, and woke up the next morning feeling fine! Phew. I took it easy that day, walking around and lazing in a hammock. The next day I did a full day kayaking tour. We kayaked a ton, walked through a village to see a small waterfall, swam, saw dolphins, visited the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia (beautiful and very impressive!), and got back to Don Det as the sun was starting to set over the water. It was a somewhat unorganized tour but we had a good time. And my arms/neck/shoulders hurt so much after, it was quite a workout!

Also of note (to me at least), I finally

had my first Pad Thai in Asia. I was trying to hold out until Thailand, but I couldn't wait any more. And Laos has close ties to Thailand, so it's supposedly really similar. And I was not disappointed. Nommmm. I could live on Thai food...it's basically why I decided to do this whole trip: pad thai on a Thai beach. Ok kidding, sort of. But I was a happy happy girl. I already know I'm going to be that super annoying person who, upon eating at an Asian restaurant, shakes her head sadly after one bite and sighs "it's just not the same...when I was in ______...(insert name of country here). I already do it with hummus, and Mexican food...let's add spring rolls and pho and pad Thai and I guess all Asian food to the list. I'm sorry in advance. Please still eat meals with me. 

With my visa I have a month to spend here in Laos, which sounds like a lot of time but it really isn't! So I'm feeling a tiny bit rushed, as there's so many places I want to see here. I'm starting to make my way up north now.

 I spent my first night on the mainland in tiny Champasak, known for the beautiful (and UNESCO heritage site) Wat Phu Champasak, reminiscent of the Angkorian temples. (I wonder how many temples and wats I've seen on this trip?!) I met up with 3 Aussies and 2 Germans en route, and after arriving in town around 2pm we dumped our bags in a guesthouse and went right to Wat Phu. Lots of stairs in blazing hot sun, beautiful views of the Mekong valley, really peaceful and shady area at the top...nice place to check out. Sidenote, I know that back home winter is giving y'all a beating, and I'm thrilled to be missing it. But I believe that I'm entering the hottest time in SEA (March and April will be the worst, and it's starting now). I know you don't feel bad for me at the moment, you shouldn't, and I do love the heat, but eeeeesh. If you saw my hair you'd understand.

Now I'm in Pakse, a shit little city that I'm just in for a day to grab a connecting bus further north tomorrow morning. I'm going to Tat Lo next, part of the Bolaven Plateau. I don't know much about it, but it's known for coffee and waterfalls--and a slightly cooler climate--so it sounds like a place for me!!

I'm just trying to keep my head on straight with so many languages and currencies constantly changing. Just when I start to get the hang of things, it all changes on me! I think I've finally stopped saying "thank you" in Khmer instead of Lao, and I'm just starting to work out the math on Kip, the Lao currency. I was spoiled in Cambodia, did I ever mention that they use the US dollar? Their currency is the riel but its basically useless, so everyone works in dollars. The ATMs give out dollars, not riel, if that tells you anything. But they give you change in riel, you use it for small purchases, and you can use a combination of the 2 currencies, so effectively you're using both at once. Oy. I do miss the ease of south/central America, where almost every country speaks the same language. It also helps enormously  that I speak said language. But alas, I'm learning new things all the time out here! 

Keep on emailing me updates on your lives, I LOVE getting them. Ive been gone for 3 months now, I'm sure you have at least one story for me! And iPhone users (hey Cam, is that you yet?!??), remember that you can text and FaceTime me any time (just keeping in mind the time difference). When I have wifi ill get it!

Sending hugs and kisses to you all!